Winter’s Fruit

Citrus are the essential fruits of winter, yet they rarely get credit for their variety and their versatility or for adding bright color to the muted tones of the season. But, they provide a welcome and refreshing counterpoint to the hearty dishes of winter. Sweet, seasonal Meyer lemons come to market in January and stay until early spring; dice them into relish, add thin pinwheel slices to salads or use in lieu of regular lemons in vinaigrettes, sorbets, and tarts. Grapefruit (especially the hot-pink Ruby Reds) and pomelos invigorate many savory winter recipes; try in a salad mixed with avocados and green olives. Tangerines (Clementines, Satsumas and Pixies) and tangelos (an easy-to-peel cross between a mandarin and pomelo) have bright, tropical flavors that burst with a juicy tart sweetness. Blood oranges, the ruby jewels of southern Italy, add a sense of drama to your early-morning meal as well as for late-night cocktails.