
We’re working on developing new flavors of Mexican favorites and we are hoping that you may not miss the meat with these earthy-tasting tacos, adapted only slightly from Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen. They are made with dried pasilla peppers and a mix of sautéed wild mushrooms. The pasilla is a rich-flavored, medium hot pepper that is generally 6-8 inches long. It is a blackish-brown color – which is why it is also called a chile negro. It is particularly good used in sauces. In its fresh form this chile is called a chilaca. We made these last weekend for a starter dish at a friend’s dinner party but you could create your own meal around them by adding in a side of garlicky cooked greens, pinto beans and red rice. They are also delicious served aside fresh morning eggs – sprinkle on a little queso fresco or feta cheese and garnish with cilantro.

For Pasilla Salsa:
1 sm. head of garlic
2 oz. dried pasilla chiles
1 tsp dried oregano
Freshly ground black pepper
Cumin, preferably freshly ground (about 1 tsp.)
To Finish:
Vegetable or olive oil
1/2 c. mushroom broth (you can use vegetable, chicken or beef as well)
8 oz. sliced, wild mushrooms (try shiitakes, hedgehog, hen-of-the-woods, chanterelles, porcini…)
1/4 c. epazote (see note) or cilantro
To Serve:
Homemade corn tortillas (2-3 per person)
Salt
1/2 white onion, diced
1/2 c. crumbled queso fresco
Homemade crema, creme fraiche or sour cream
Epazote or cilantro
To Make the Pasilla Salsa:
Divide the garlic bulb into individual cloves, but do not peel them. Roast the unpeeled cloves on a hot, ungreased, (and preferably) cast iron griddle or skillet pan over medium heat. Turn the cloves occasionally until they have softened (they will blacken some), about 15 minutes. Let cool and then peel.
While the garlic cloves are roasting, stem, halve lengthwise and de-seed the dried chiles. Toast them flattened on another side of the griddle or skillet, one or two at a time. Press them flat down on the hot surface, using a spatula. In a matter of seconds they will begin to crackle, flip them and quickly toast the other side. Remove them from the heat, place them in a bowl and cover them with hot water. Repeat with the remaining pasilla chiles and let all the chiles rehydrate for 30 minutes, stirring often to make sure that they each soak evenly.
Drain the chiles, reserving the soaking water. Place the chiles, 1/3 cup soaking liquid, peeled garlic cloves, oregano, ground pepper and ground cumin in a food processor and blend to a smooth puree. If the mix seems too thick to move through the blades, add another tablespoon or two of the soaking liquid. Scrape down the sides of the blender, using a small rubber spatula to ensure that the sauce is relatively smooth. Set aside, or place in a storage container until ready to serve.
To Complete:
Heat a glug of oil in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, dump all the pasilla salsa into the pan and continue to stir for about 5 minutes. Add broth, mushrooms and epazote or cilantro. Stir, partially cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook for about 15 minutes – stirring frequently – until mushrooms have softened and the sauce has thickened. Season with salt to taste.
Serve with warm tortillas, a sprinkle of chopped onions, cheese, crema and a garnish of herb.
Preparation Tip: To prepare a dried pepper, first slice in half and remove stem and seeds. Toast for a few seconds on each side (most people forget this step, which is the most important to bring out the flavor) and then steep in warm water.
Thinking Ahead: We are starting to think about seeds for this year’s garden. Herbs are easy. Consider adding epazote to your list of packs. It is a leafy herb commonly used in Mexican cooking, but can also be grown in a less hot climate.